The Road to Hana

The Road to Hana is astonishingly scenic, narrowly winding its way through the lush green rain forest on the windward slope of the Haleakala volcano. It crosses streams on one-lane bridges, offers glimpses of flowing waterfalls, occasionally bursts upon sweeping ocean vistas, and shares a feeling of Hawaii “untouched”.

Though most visitors try, it's not a good idea to drive to Hana and back in a single day. A much wiser plan is to spend at least one night in Hana. Visitors with a sense of adventure should consider driving around the rugged southern coast of the island (best if you have a Jeep), even though the rental car map will warn of dire consequences for venturing onto a four-mile segment of unpaved road.

It's advisable to start early, considering its 52 miles from Kahului to Hana, an additional 35 miles around the south via the Piilani Highway to Ulupalakua Ranch. There are said to be 54 one-lane bridges and 600 curves. The journey can easily stretch into hours - and it's the last thing you'll want to rush.

Fill up the gas tank in Kahului and pick up some sandwiches, because services are limited along the route - Hana is the only place where gas is available, and that’s 52 miles one way.

The highway is a scenic wonder, coursing through an impossibly verdant landscape. Steep hillsides are thick with glistening ferns and vines, such that on some slopes you might be hard-pressed to find a single patch of dirt or a boulder that hasn't been engulfed by the primordial carpet.
At makeshift stands along the road, any number of products might be displayed for sale: yellow and red ginger flowers, banana bread, coconut candy.

A trip down yet another side road to Hamoa Beach is also highly recommended. The cove's brilliant palette of aqua blues and greens routinely lands Hamoa on the best-beaches lists of major travel magazines.

Oheo Gulch, seven pools area, Haleakala National Park, Maui Photo by: Ron Dahlquist

Beyond Hana, the standard turn-around point for day-trippers is Oheo Gulch, referred to as the Seven Sacred Pools. Water tumbles down the mountainside here through perhaps two dozen pools, and if you're put off by the crowds at the lower ones, cross the highway and go upstream to find more-secluded ones.

You will want to see the Seven Sacred Pools, make sure to stop in at the Ranger Station and pay the state park visitors fee. There are many trails and paths that lead to vista’s overlooking the pools and falls. Use caution and watch your footing. Ask the ranger of current weather conditions, as flash floods could occur at anytime. Past the Seven Sacred Pools, look for the Maui Stables sign," here you will find reasonably priced horseback riding (reservations needed). While you are there you may also pay your respect to Charles Lindbergh.

MAUI TRAVELER FACT: Famed aviator Charles Lindbergh chose to live out his days in and around Hana and South Maui. He is buried on Kipahulu Point, in the graveyard of an 1857 church in Hana.. We can't give exact details, but you can find and walk to his grave site, its near Maui Stables.

If you decided to continue around Maui’s southern coast a few miles farther on, the highway bends into the lee of Haleakala, and the rain forest abruptly gives way to an arid, scrubby landscape. The mountain slopes tumble down to wind-swept, gray sand beaches that appear to go on for miles.

The highway pavement soon runs out, but - rental-car contract be damned - these vistas and this isolation are just too tempting for many travelers to pass up.

After rattling along this road for a few miles, the Kaupoa Store looms like a mirage. Most folks pause here for a cool drink just for the reassurance of human interaction. Established in 1925, this rest stop resembles an old plantation general store, and some of the merchandise seems to date from that era - shelves hold vintage cameras, typewriters, radios and ukuleles.

The rest of the way, even as the pavement returns, the barren landscape is broken up by some stray paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) working cattle, or an old lava-rock church, or the rare traveler approaching from the other direction.

So much of Hawaii has been swamped with development, it's refreshing to behold these sweeping, empty spaces with such prime ocean views.
And when a semblance of civilization returns in the ranches of Upcountry Maui, it arrives much too soon.

MAUI TRAVELER TIP: On your return trip from Hana, if you decided to take the southern route back, be sure to stop at Maui's only winery at Ulupalakua Ranch. Tedeschi Vineyards produces red, white, sparkling, and raspberry wines.

Drive Safely Please!